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review of an actual trip

this post has been updated in March 2023.

Breathtakingly awesome landscapes, fjords, mountains and Northern Lights – these are what people most associate with Norway. But travel costs are not far behind. ‘How much money should I set aside for a holiday in Norway?’ ‘Is Norway really that expensive?’ ‘Can you travel in Norway on a budget?’ These are questions that are very much on travellers’ minds when weighing their options when it comes to where to go and how much to spend. The same is true for us hikers.

breaking it down - a real budget for a trek in Jotunheimen

In this article I give an actual breakdown of budget required for a trek in Norway’s most alpine area: Jotunheimen, or ‘home of the giants’. The trek I have chosen for illustrative purposes is taken from my new guidebook, Hiking in Norway – South, and is a classic route. It is a six-day (seven-night) trek that takes you over the famous Besseggen ridge alongside Gjende Lake and then along and up Glittertinden and Galdhøpiggen – Norway’s and Scandinavia’s two highest mountains. In-between you hike along beautiful valleys, shaped by ice and glaciers, as well as among many of the peaks that give the park its name. In short, an awesome trek.

what I am excluding - just so you know - equipment, insurance and flights

I assume you already have the necessary equipment, so no costing for equipment is included here. Additionally, choice of kit is subjective and very much depends on how simple or how fancy you want to go. However, for a good suggested gear list, have a look here. Note that this includes a sleeping bag liner, which is compulsory in all mountain huts.

Consider taking out adequate travel insurance. Mountain rescue in Norway is free, but follow-up healthcare costs could be considerable.

Finally, it is assumed that for the Jotunheimen trek you would fly in to Oslo Gardermoen Airport (which is the most convenient entry point for this trek). Prices of flights will vary significantly depending on carrier, timing, and distance – best to check with your preferred airline or flight comparison site. Or you could consider the bus or the train from continental Europe to Oslo!

the choices you can make

In order to cost things out for the trek, I will first provide a list of the various expenses such as local transfer, accommodation, food and other necessary costs, as well as outlining some of the options available to you. Then I will put these individual expenses together and group them into three different types of trekking experience, to provide overall costs for each of the following:

Option 1, where you pitch your tent away from the mountain huts and are completely self-sufficient.
Option 2, where you camp near huts for a few nights and eat some meals there but are otherwise self-contained.
Option 3, which assumes you travel light, choosing to stay full board in huts at their simplest lodging option.

The estimated costs are based on my own experience in Norway, and on actual current costs taken from websites. Not all lodges and transport providers have listed their 2021 prices yet, but I have used those when I could find them. Additionally, all prices are per person unless otherwise noted. Check out exchange rates in the sidebar of this post with the currency converter. I used current exchange rates at the time of writing to illustrate, but these change all the time.

I hope this information is helpful in planning and understanding your options for hiking in Norway in general and Jotunheimen in particular. You might find that making particular budgetary choices when planning your holiday will go a long way towards maximising your enjoyment of the trip. You might also find that hiking in Norway’s glorious alpine landscapes, among glaciers, valleys and lakes, is much more in reach than you thought.

local transport – how to get there (and back)

train, bus and boat fees

The Jotunheimen Classic trek starts from Gjendesheim mountain hut, situated at the eastern end of Gjende Lake in Jotunheimen National Park. It is easiest to get here by bus from Oslo’s central bus terminal (‘Oslo Sentral’), the bus stops a few meters from the hut. It is easy to get to the central bus terminal from Oslo Gardermoen Airport by train. The trek ends at Gjendebu hut at the far western end of Gjende Lake. To get back to Gjendesheim from there you’ll need to take the boat on Gjende Lake, and from Gjendesheim a bus and train back to the airport.

Single trip on express train from Oslo Gardermoen Airport to Oslo bus terminal: 199 NOK (see here)
Round trip on Valdresekspressen bus from Oslo bus terminal to Gjendesheim hut: around 1000 NOK return, depending on how far in advance you book (see here). This is a summer-only route, with the listing published each spring.
Boat trip on Gjende Lake from Gjendebu to Gjendesheim: 200 NOK (see here)

Accommodation – where to stay or camp

mountain cabins, lodges and camping

Along the Jotunheimen Classic route you have the option of staying in a fully serviced mountain cabin every night. Some are run by the DNT Oslo and Omegn trekking association, while others are privately owned. All provide a discount if you are a member of any DNT trekking association in Norway. It is useful to know that you can camp in the grounds of most of these cabins and lodges for a small fee, while using their facilities such as the outhouse, dry room, showers and lounges. Alternatively, you can pitch your tent anywhere in the mountains at no cost if you do so at least 150m away from any built-up structure (like a cabin, house, or farm). For more information, see Norway’s law regarding the ‘right to roam’. Generally speaking, when camping in the grounds of a hut a reservation is not required.

Thus, if you take your tent, sleeping and cooking gear on your trek, you have maximum flexibility. You can make your decision each day depending on the weather and the level of comfort you feel like having that night. You have to balance the significant extra weight of your equipment against the cost of the cabins. On the other hand, do you prefer the privacy of your own tent, or the comfort of a proper mattress? Sleeping outdoors is a very different experience and can add much to your enjoyment of the spectacular landscapes you hike through. Sleeping in a hut allows you to hike with a lighter backpack, and to enjoy the comfort and warmth of the cabins and their hospitality.

accommodation prices

Prices for accommodation, per person per night (taken from 2021 price lists where available):

Lodging at DNT huts in Jotunheimen: 160–380 NOK, depending on room type
Approximate price in private lodges: 280–625 NOK, depending on room type
Showers at huts: mostly included in lodging fee, otherwise around 20–50 NOK
Bedding is provided at the cabins, but use of a (sleeping bag) liner or linen is mandatory. Take your own, or hire for 90–100 NOK. Towels: take your own or hire for about 50 NOK.
Camping at a designated site on the grounds of the huts: 90–150 NOK, depending on site
COVID surcharge for additional sanitation of huts for 2021: 45–50 NOK

Under-26-year-olds pay half-price if staying at the cheapest accommodation option in the huts; further discounts are available for children and families. See the full 2021 price list for the DNT Oslo and Omegn huts here.

Pitching your tent in norway is allowed on unfenced land

food and drink on the trail

Many of the treks featured in my hiking guide make use of self-service huts, at least in some locations. These huts all have a fully equipped kitchen, and a pantry where you can buy a reasonably wide selection of non-perishable items, such as coffee, tea, hot chocolate, breakfast oats, tins or packages of rice, pasta and other dishes, soups, pancake mix, as well as chocolate and snacks. Availability of all items is not guaranteed, so flexibility is important. You pay for what you take and each cabin has a price list (have a look here for the latest prices available in 2020 from the Oslo and Omegn trekking association).

plan ahead if you want to camp

Buying food for your own cooking is not possible along the Jotunheimen Classic trek, as the huts are all fully serviced in summer. The huts do, however, sell snacks such as chocolate and cookies, some basic toiletries, and at times gas bottles too. So if you want to camp along the trail you need to plan ahead; it is worth considering taking hiking food from your home country. The selection will be familiar, and you know what you will pay. You can take sealed, packaged and dried foods through customs – ideal for trekking. Note that you can’t take camping fuel on planes, so you’ll have to source that locally before setting out, if you fly into Norway. See section on ‘other important stuff’.

buying groceries

To get an idea of the prices you’ll pay for groceries, it’s worth looking at this online store. You can even put together a basket of the goods you might want to buy if you were stocking up for a tent-based hiking trip. For example:

Loaf of bread: 40–60 NOK
Oats for porridge: 20 NOK
Small packet of ham: 30 NOK
Block of cheese: 65 NOK
Packet of noodles: 10 NOK

Prices in physical supermarkets are going to be fairly similar. The supermarket chains Rema 1000 and Kiwi might have slightly lower prices; both have outlets within walking distance of the Oslo central train/bus station.

no need to plan if you decide to take full board in a mountain hut

The fully serviced mountain cabins and lodges on the Jotunheimen Classic all offer breakfast, lunch packages and dinner. You don’t have to buy these when you stay at the hut, but note that these cabins don’t allow the use of camping stoves on their premises, except in the camping grounds.

You can choose full board, which includes a lunch package (you make this yourself) for the trail and a full flask of hot drink, or alternatively you can buy meals individually. From the DNT 2021 price list:

Breakfast: 142 NOK
Three-course dinner: 357 NOK (main course only: 210 NOK)
Sandwich (as part of the lunch package): 15 NOK
Flask of tea/coffee/hot water: 49 NOK (per flask, whether it is a full or a half-litre)

This might seem expensive at first sight, but remember that everything has to be transported to the huts over sometimes arduous terrain and long distances, or is made locally by small farmsteads that need to make a living. There is always enough food for everyone; you can eat your fill. The skill of the cook obviously determines the quality of the offering, and sometimes you might be licking your fingers after being served local produce, like trout or lamb. Vegetarian and vegan options are possible, but be sure to communicate your dietary requirements as early as you can.

prices for lodging and full board

Putting it all together, for lodging and full board (includes bed, shower, three-course dinner, breakfast, and packed lunch incl. hot drink): 840–990 NOK, depending on room type. For the same package in the private mountain lodges on this trek (Memurubu, Spiterstulen, Leirvassbu): 715–1500 NOK, depending on room type. Some private lodges stipulate a minimum stay of two nights, and offer a discount if you stay longer or for families (Spiterstulen, Leirvassbu).

Finally, while after-dinner coffee/tea and cookies or a slice of cake are usually part of the offering, snacks and alcoholic drinks are always separate:

Beer by the can or wine by the glass: 80–100 NOK
Chips (crisps), chocolate, cookies: 30–50 NOK

fully serviced mountain huts have a small kiosk

other important stuff

If you are camping, you will likely need to buy stove fuel or gas before setting out - you can’t bring it with you if you fly into Norway.

Stove fuel: 70–100 NOK (see for example here – the Norwegian Trekking Association offers membership and has a store in Oslo, a five-minute walk from the central train/bus station). Even if you’re staying at the cabins, consider carrying a small gas burner so that you can have a coffee or a tea, or a cup of soup, while you’re on the trail.
DNT membership (useful if you’re staying at huts for more than three nights): adults 725 NOK for a calendar year; go to dnt.no. You may be eligible for discounts, depending on your age.
DNT universal key for self-serviced and unserviced huts: 100 NOK (when picked up). You don’t need the key for the Jotunheimen Classic trek, but for other routes in my guidebook it may be required, so I list it here for completeness.

In order to get the most out of your experience on and around the trail, it is always best to arm yourself with the right information:

Guidebook: Hiking in Norway – South: The 10 best multi-day treks, buy it here for 17.95 GBP (220 NOK, current exchange rate) excluding shipping
Maps: for this trek, the best maps are Nordeca Jotunheimen Aust 2503 and Nordeca Jotunheimen Vest 2505 – for example from kartbutikken.no at 24.00 EUR for each map at the time of writing, excluding shipping, 550 NOK for the two (at current exchange rates).

Services at Oslo bus terminal

Luggage storage (three different sizes): starting at 70 NOK per 24-hour period

putting the budget together for your trek

So, we’ve covered transport, accommodation, food, maps, guidebook and some incidentals. Now let’s put it all together. Hopefully you will see that even though some essentials are more expensive than in your home country, you can still enjoy a Norwegian trek on a moderate budget (and have a fantastic experience!).

I will outline three ways of going about your hiking adventure. In the first, you take your own camping gear and pitch your tent away from the huts, making use of your ‘right to roam’. In the second you camp near huts for a few nights and eat some meals there but are otherwise self-contained. The third scenario assumes you travel light and choose to stay full board in huts, using their simplest lodging room.

In all cases it is assumed that for this trek you would arrive at Oslo Gardermoen Airport, and that you would buy the two maps (550 NOK total) and the guidebook (220 NOK). You would need two transfers to/from Oslo bus terminal (400 NOK total), a return bus trip to Gjendesheim (1000 NOK), and the single boat trip on Gjende lake (200 NOK). So for internal transport and book/maps, you could expect to spend 2400 NOK in all cases, regardless of the length of your stay.

Option 1

Let us imagine that you take your backpack full of the goodies you would need to make yourself as self-contained as possible. You also plan to buy some essentials in a supermarket, but otherwise you are making use of what nature has to offer and are going to camp away from the huts.

So, you take most of your hiking food and all the necessary gear. You go into the city on arrival to buy some stove fuel (2x 70 NOK). Maybe you decide to use the lockers at the bus terminal (70 NOK). Add to that the cost of the groceries that you are going to buy locally for your hiking trip. That really depends on what you take from home, but be sure to try the local chocolate (because you’ve heard it is so delicious!). Add some nice fresh foods for the first night(s). You are likely to pay around 1000 NOK at the checkout, because as always when in a new country there will be something that tempts you.

Total cost for Scenario 1: approximately 3600 NOK. This is not dirt-cheap, but it is still quite doable at just over 500 NOK per night on average. And if you are staying longer than seven nights: the additional cost per night on top of the initial 2400 NOK would be no more than around 170 NOK (1200 NOK divided by seven).

Option 2

If you are going to camp but plan to spend a few nights camping near the huts so you can use their facilities, add 90–150 NOK per night for each of those (this will depend on where you camp; in Jotunheimen, Memurubu is the most expensive at 150 NOK per person per night). In this scenario you could add NOK 725 for the DNT membership fee, which would get you a discount on camping in the grounds near the hut, as well as on the meals. It would be touch and go as to whether this outlay would pay for itself, but it would buy you some flexibility if you did decide to spend a rainy night in the cabin instead of in the tent. If you take food for a few days but want to eat in the huts at times, you can buy a main course for 210 NOK and add this (or these) to your budget. For example, you set up your tent at Glitterheim, Spiterstulen (the latter for two nights, so that you can scale Galdhøpiggen peak with a day pack) and Gjendebu huts, and you eat a main meal at Glitterheim and Gjendebu, but you remain self-sufficient the other five days. The additional costs over Scenario 1 would be the DNT membership, the camping (370 NOK) and the main meals (420 NOK), but with a somewhat reduced supermarket bill (say, 800 instead of 1000 NOK). Your total budget in Scenario 2 would be under 5000 NOK – just over 700 NOK per day. Excluding the initial layout of 2400 NOK for every scenario, the cost per additional night would be 350 NOK.

typical breakfast buffet at a mountain hut

Option 3

Alternatively, you might decide to travel light and stay full board in a hut each night while hiking the Jotunheimen Classic, taking the simplest accommodation option offered (prices used are the latest available). First of all, get the DNT membership for 725 NOK – it will pay off for certain. Three nights in the DNT huts of the Oslo and Omegn trekking association would be 3x 940, plus 3x 45 (corona fee). Add the cost of staying at the private huts – 2x Spiterstulen (2040), 1x Memurubu (1050), 1x Leirvassbu (715) – and you get around 7500 NOK in total. Plus the maps, guidebook, and local transport costs at 2400 NOK as in the other scenarios. Here you’re looking at just under 10,000 NOK for a six-day (seven-night) full-board hiking holiday – or some 1400 NOK per day. Cost per night on top of the initial 2400 NOK outlay: 1080 NOK (rounded).

That is your minimum spend if you go with lodging and full board. It does not include incidentals such as alcohol with dinner, or snacks. Bedroom in a hut will generally be shared with four to five people and facilities will be shared as well. If you want to upgrade for a few nights it is only an additional 40 NOK in the DNT huts, but up to 500 NOK per night in Spiterstulen, Leirvassbu or Memurubu.

Many of the treks in my guidebook take you to self-service huts, where you would cater for yourself while perhaps buying some produce in the huts themselves. You can expect to spend less if doing so. Therefore, Scenario 3 on the Jotunheimen trek gives you a kind of upper limit, because hiking with full board is the most expensive option.

my personal choices when hiking in Norway

Personally, I like to travel on the frugal side wherever possible. Frugality tends to get you closer to the local people and culture, as you travel on public transport and shop in the local supermarkets. I enjoy the authenticity of those experiences; I feel less in my own ‘bubble’ and more connected to life in the country itself. That being said, I will certainly allow myself to indulge in things that bring me pleasure, such as an incidental glass of wine at dinner after a long hiking day or the occasional private room in a mountain hut. Compared with the average spend of a foreign holidaymaker in Norway, mine is still lower. According to a survey by Innovation Norway, the average holiday spend per day in 2017 was 2240 NOK. Given that most holidaymakers say they travel to experience Norway’s nature, mountains and fjords, one could argue that doing so on a hiking holiday is the most budget-friendly option. And if you camp, you’ll spend a quarter of what the average traveller spent in 2017. You might find it useful to compare these numbers with those of other travellers on websites like budgetyourtrip.com.

Whether you choose to splurge or keep it simple, you’ll have a wonderful hiking trip exploring Norway’s highest peaks and most beautiful alpine landscapes – I am sure of it!

where will you go next?

Want more help with the planning for your hiking trek in Norway? Be sure to read this post on useful apps to download to your phone. And stay tuned for the new opening times of the mountain huts in Norway for the 2021 summer season; you can find their websites here. I’ll also make sure to post when information about the 2021 summer bus routes becomes available. Stay tuned!

getting to norway

For the Jotunheimen trek, flying into Oslo is your fastest option, as there is a direct bus from the central bus terminal to Jotunheimen. Best to check with your preferred airline or flight comparison site; My personal expenditure here was generally about 330 EUR, including luggage, on a non-budget airline for a return flight into Oslo Gardermoen Airport from (and back to) Amsterdam Schiphol Airport.

From Europe you could alternatively take long-distance buses and trains. Best to check rome2rio, flixbus or eurorail.

The bus is about to arrive. Happy hiking!

Photo credits: all photos taken by the author while hiking in Norway

Note, I have no affiliation with any of the websites I recommend in this article, other than where I refer to my own guidebook and where to buy it.

What does it really cost to hike in Norway?